A4 boxster caliper install

The pin head has flat faces which seat against corresponding flat spots on the caliper, make sure you insert it the correct way around. Tighten the supplied bolt into the end of the pin to secure it in place. Your pads are now installed. Fit your pad wear sensors.

These will only fit into the pads one way around and simply slot into place. Route the sensor cable securely in place with the retainer built into the pad clip and the channel built into the caliper.

Lastly for the caliper build, screw your brake line into the caliper body. Be careful not to cross-thread; it should not feel tight until it is almost all the way in. With my HEL lines tightened all the way down I am still left with around 4mm thread exposed. This probably a good time to check your bleed nipples are tightened down too. What I actually found was that none of the sheilds fit correctly, even with some modification and that it was impossible to mount the disc with the caliper already in place.

So with your caliper ready to go, place it to the side and prepare the hub for the new disc. Clean up your hub of any surface rust and grime parts cleaner and a wire brush are great for this , now position your big new brake disc into place on the hub. If you find that it fouls your dust shield you can try and modify it to fit or just remove it — I removed it.

I actually made myself an impressively ugly wooden spacer to hold the disc flush to the hub while I worked with the caliper. Now we install the caliper! I found the easiest way to hold the nut was with an adjustable spanner gripped down tightly on the nut — this lets you hold the spanner upside down without the nut falling out like it would with a standard spanner.

It will look something like this:. You can either jump right into connecting up the brake lines at this point or mount up the opposite side and do both brake lines together. My recommendation is to mount up the other side.

So hopefully you now have both calipers fitted securely onto the hubs, over your new discs. Before you disconnect the old lines, throw a wheel back on and check your clearances. Wrap the lines in paper towel to catch the drips as the fluid is corrosive and will wreck the paint on your calipers and wheels if left to sit. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid in your reservoir, you do not want this to drop bellow the minimum level as you could introduce too much air into the system.

Top it up and check the level after reconnecting each new line. An 11mm brake line spanner is the perfect tool to disconnect the old rubber line from the car. A brake line spanner has a small opening to fit over the line but can then be turned to grip onto every face of the nut. Undo the brake line nut. I gripped the rubber line with some mole-grips to stop it turning with the nut. With the old rubber line disconnected, place the old caliper and line out of the way fluid will leak from the line if you leave it upside down.

To tighten, grip the new line with an open ended spanner 14mm was required for my HEL lines. Clean up and brake fluid spills and check the reservoir level.

Top up if necessary any repeat the line installation for the opposite side. The original wear sensor retaining bracket was part of the old caliper you just removed. I have heard the B7 RS4 bracket can be used but cannot confirm.

Got questions? Leave a comment. Andy Le wanted to know the spec of the bleed screws. I know my heads are 11mm but other than that I needed to measure one with my gauge from Pro-Bolt….

Look at the photo and make your own mind up…. Out of curiosity , do you know what size are the bleeder screws? Hi Andy, I have a spare 18z caliper so I went and took some measurements for you today. Looks like an M10x1. Hello, I have an a4 b6 1. Thank you. Can they be made to fit by spacing the rotor or caliper, or machining? Hi Greg, The spec I found for the Cayenne discs is below but these are not my own measurements and so cannot confirm the accuracy.

Diameter: mm Overall height: 68,5 mm Centre diameter: 85 mm Stud holes: 5 Thickness: 34 mm. How much would you bet an entirely untested, unproven disc bore spacer would perform? Your life? Yep, I discovered some of that stuff after asking the question. Not the way to go. How about using the mm Mercedes rotors, rather than the mm? The only thing different that I can see other than the diameter is that the hat is about 3. Mercedes W, W, W and X models all have mm rotors. Hi mate, Great write-up!

I have a B6 S4 and wondering if wear sensors are common? Im in Australia and although my VW Touareg has wear sensors I have no lights on my dash to show when my brakes need replacing and right now ive been riding around with absolutey no meat left on my brakes! Another question what is this improvement of going 18z over OEM S4 Calipers which take a mm rotor? Yea, wear sensors are pretty common, even my B5 A4 had wear sensors. When triggered the centre info screen on the dash lights up with an icon that looks like an old drum break same location the low fuel icon appears.

It also displays if your brake fluid gets low. Same for B5, B6 and B7 A4s. You may find on other vehicles that rather than a dedicated brake pad light or screen notification, your handbrake light just stays illuminated. Some manufacturers have been known to use them to warn of low fluid and pad wear too. You can snip the sensor cable and plug off the old pads, join the wires together and plug it back into the car.

The car thinks the pads are fine and no warnings are displayed. Not ideal as you then have to keep an eye on the pad level yourself but handy to get you out of a jam. Monster mm discs and 8-pot calipers, identical to the Lamborghini Gallardo. They perform better than than this 18z option and look absolutely amazing but were obscenely expensive both in initial outlay and ongoing maintenance.

They were better in terms of brake performance and looks but far from ideal for a daily driven car with a penny pinching owner, like me haha. Passengers are genuinely shocked by the way my brake setup on the 3. For me the 18z setup performs excellently in every way in need it to.

Your link to Q5 wear sensors shows a Left Axle sensor — do we need a different part number for RHS or just or 2 of the left sensors and they will work? I bought two of those Q5 sensors listed and all went together fine on left and RHS. With the rotors the only thing you suggest needs to be done is a slight increase of the centre bore by 1mm in total — are there any other adjustments required to any of the mounting holes or do they just bolt up?

Cheers Simon. No worries at all, mate. I researched this setup on and off for over a year before I felt confident enough to start buying parts and fitting things up. Happy to save everyone else the trouble I went through. This part does not have vehicle applications yet. For fitment verification, contact our sales team via , Live Chat , or sales ecstuning.

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